Sir Wally Herbert: he followed Cook and Peary
British polar icon Wally Herbert died June 12 at
age 72. The third expedition to walk to the North
Geographic Pole, Wally and his men continued across
the Arctic Ocean in a monstrous trip that included overwintering
on the ice in 1968-69.
Wally’s polar life was marked by human ambition
and controversy typical for Arctic explorers of the
time. In 1908, American-born Frederick Cook claimed
to be the first to have reached the North Pole. Fellow
American Robert E Peary said he reached the pole the
next year, disputing Cook and claiming the first for
himself. Next to reach the spot was Wally Herbert in
1969, soon disputing
Peary. With that the North Pole
“first” got its third contestant (not including a number
of accompanying team members and local
Inuits).
The will to be the first
With a Norwegian first to ski to the South Pole,
Nepal/New Zealand first to summit Everest, Soviets
first to fly to space and Americans first to walk on the
moon - Wally’s dispute of Peary gained many fans
among his countrymen (often with inflated claims) and
the North Pole debate rages to this day. |
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Wally was a doubter as far as the North Pole
was concerned. He did not believe that either Cook or Peary got there, but his earliest
opinions were decidely for Cook, as in his
1970 book, The North Pole. |
British press releases have lately had Herbert as
the first man to walk to the North Geographic Pole,
and the first team in history to reach the North Pole
by surface travel without the assistance of airlifts.
Historians however seldom debate Wally; the issue
stands between Cook and Peary. Wally’s name only
entered the picture after he was assigned by National
Geographic to scrutinize Peary’s trip vs. Cook’s. The
unfortunate consequence in this choice of “judge” was
that if Peary’s claims were found without ample proof
Wally himself would get the honor.
Wally concluded that Peary’s log showed
improbable distances and ice drifts. Both conclusions
were later disputed by other polar explorers, who
experienced the same type of drift that Peary described.
In spring 2005, an expedition also matched Peary’s
reported 37 day record using exact replicas of Peary’s
sleds. There is neither any conclusive proof that Cook
didn’t make it and thus the throne remains divided
between the two.
All three polar explorers used dogs, while Wally
also used airdrops, including an 11 tonnes drop before
the pole.
The first team to actually walk to the pole (not
riding dogsleds) was the1979 Russian expedition led
by Dmitri Shparo who used four air drops to manage
the distance. In 1994, Norwegian Borge Ousland
soloed the trek, proving it possible to walk to the North
Pole without assistance. There are of course no records
of local Inuits who, although unlikely, might have done
hunting expeditions to the region even before all the
western explorers.
Brits first to cross, Russians repeat without dogs
Where Cook and Peary went to the North Pole and
back, Herbert’s expedition started out from Point
Barrow (Alaska) and continued towards Svalbard after
the pole. It’s a pity that the quest for a North Pole
first, along with the erroneous statements that Wally
didn’t use airdrops overshadow the true achievement
of the expedition: They were the first to do a crossing
of the Arctic ice.
Arctic walks require little technical skill; the
difficulty instead lies in pulling weight in bitter cold
over large distances of crumbling ice. This takes
experience, ingenuity and resistance to pain. Some 20
years after Herbert’s expedition, in 1988 Russian
Dmitri again upped the bar by crossing from Cape
Arktichevski to Cape Columbia; using four airdrops
but no dogs to help with the haul.
A number of other expeditions followed, many on
snowmobiles and most including assistance of some
kind. Richard Weber and Mikhail Malakhov stood out
in 1995 by skiing to the pole and back without dogs
or external support; using only caches they placed out
enroute for the return. Also Cook and Peary used
caches, but they hired Inuits for the job.
1967 was ‘The Last Great Journey in the World’
Norwegians first to cross unsupported
The first and only people to have crossed the entire
Arctic Ocean fully unsupported (no dogs, kites, caches
or airdrops) were Norwegians Rune Gjeldnes and Torry
Larsen, in 2000. They started out in Russia and stepped
on the ice during the pitch black Arctic winter. By the
end of the journey, they had lost almost everything - their
sleds, their gear - and were finally picked up by the
Canadian coast wearing only a backpack. Where Wally’s
expedition took 16 months, including 3 months overwintering
on the ice cap, the two Norwegians made it in
only 108 days.
Meanwhile, Wally Herbert has forever left his mark
on earth. He has had a mountain range and a
plateau named after him in the Antarctic, and the most northerly
mountain in Svalbard named after him in the high Arctic.
He was awarded the Polar Medal for his Antarctic
Research (1960-62) and another Polar Medal for his
crossing of the Arctic Ocean (1968-69); and Gold Medals
by the Royal Geographical Society and Royal Scottish
Geographical Society, as well as the Explorers Medal by
the Explorers Club (New York). Wally Herbert was made
a Knight Batchelor by Queen Elizabeth on the last day
of the old millennium, as “one of the British 20th Century
icons.”
Amundsen and Nobile flew a dirigible to the North
Pole in 1926. American Ralph Plaisted and his team used
snowmobiles to reach the North Pole the year before
Herbert. Some believe Plaisted is the first to reach the
North Pole over the surface.
Sir Wally Herbert, dead at the age of 72, is regarded
as the doyen of polar explorers, and one of the few
remaining links we now have to that period of history
known as the ‘Heroic Age’ of polar exploration. As both
a pioneer and as a visionary he has the empathy to relate
to history. As a prize-winning author and an artist of great
talent he is, without question, the man best suited (through
his lyrical text and his evocative images) to capture the
spirit of the polar world, its wildlife and its native people.
As a polar traveller in particular his record is outstanding
and totally unique. He is ‘the greatest polar explorer of
our time’ according to Sir Ranulph Fiennes; a
‘phenomenon’ according to the late Lord
Shackleton, and a man whose ‘determination and courage’, according to
The Prince of Wales, ‘are of truly heroic proportions’. In
the new millennium, Wally Herbert was knighted in
recognition of his achievements.
In the Antarctic in the late 1950s and early 60s he
mapped on foot some 45,000 square miles of new
country, and came within only 200 miles of achieving
his first great burning ambition of reaching the South
Pole with sledges and dogs. Since then he has sledged
several thousands of miles with some of the finest
long-range hunters of the world’s most northerly
Eskimo tribe; retraced the routes of some of the
greatest polar explorers (Shackleton, Scott, and
Amundsen in the Antarctic - Peary, Sverdrup and Cook
in the Arctic), and earned his own place in polar history
with his epic 3,800 mile trek with three companions
and forty dogs - the first surface crossing of the Arctic
Ocean, which most historians now record as “The Last
Great Journey on Earth.”
Sir Wally Herbert, Explorer of the Iciest Corners
Sir Wally Herbert, the first man to walk across the
icebound Arctic Ocean and, some contend, the first to
reach the North Pole on foot, died from diabetes, said
his daughter, Kari Herbert. Sir Wally was knighted by
Queen Elizabeth II in 2000 and lived near Inverness.
“It seemed like conquering a horizontal Everest,” Sir
Wally said of the 3,620-mile trek across treacherous ice
floes that ended May 30, 1969. He led a four-man team
on the 476-day expedition from Point Barrow, Alaska,
to a tiny island near
Spitsbergen, Norway.
On April 4, 1969 — 407 days into the journey —the team stopped at the North Pole, planted a Union
Jack and ate beef stew from supplies hauled there by
its 40 sled dogs. “It was too cold and too windy to
hold any other celebrations,” Sir Wally radioed to
London.
Sixty years earlier, on April 6, 1909, Robert Peary
claimed to be the first man to reach the pole on foot.
The news went out to the world five months later when
Admiral Peary and his team arrived at Indian Harbor,
Labrador, and sent a wire to The New York Times,
which had exclusive rights to the story. The message
read in part, “I have the Pole, April Sixth.”
Wally was a doubter as far as the North Pole was
concerned. He did not believe that either Cook or Peary
got there, but his earliest opinions were decidedly for
Cook, as in his 1970 book,
The North Pole (London:
Sackett and Marshall): “Of the two claims, Peary is
the weaker. Cook’s claims, on the other hand, are
perfectly feasible. Of the two, the more remarkable
journey without any doubt, was Cook.”
Cook’s journey was praised by Herbert in 1978
Sir Wally Herbert at the commemoration honoring
his work by the Royal Geographical Society.
He was knighted by Queen Elizabeth on the last
Day of 1999 as “one of Britain’s 20th century icons.” |
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Later, in his 1989 book that dissected both
accounts, Noose of
Laurels, he essentially placed the
American dispute to that in his own Great Britain,
declaring that “Peary and Cook, though enemies and
rivals as Polar explorers- were essentially a part of
each other as were Shackelton and Scott.” He was the
focal point in the 1993 Society conference on
“Frederick Cook Reconsidered: Discovering the Man
and his Explorations” held at the Byrd Polar Research
Center in Columbus, Ohio.
He repeated his assertions then, in the company of
internationally-famous field explorers and research
scientists. Later he retired from the “Arctic circuit”
and devoted much of his time to painting, including
images of Peary and Cook as well as of the Inuit
whom he had lived with in Greenland.
Then, in 1985, Sir Wally, who wrote nine books
on polar exploration, was invited to examine Admiral
Peary’s diary and astronomical observations. The
documents had not been made public since 1911.
In September 1988, the National Geographic Society,
which had sponsored Admiral Peary’s expedition,
published an article by Sir Wally in its magazine
detailing navigational errors, suspect distance records
and inexplicably blank pages in the admiral’s
diary. Drawing on new knowledge of Arctic Ocean weather,
currents and ice drift, he concluded that those factors
and navigational mistakes had left Peary 30 to 60 miles
from the pole.
Sir Wally was particularly concerned that Admiral
Peary’s handwritten diary offered no record of his 30
hours near the pole. Several pages were blank, and
the entry for April 6 made no mention of the pole.
Instead, a loose leaf had been inserted, declaring, “The
Pole at last!!!” Whether Peary actually made it to the
pole, Sir Wally wrote, “can never be anything more
than a probability.” |
In 1989, however, the National Geographic Society
commissioned the Navigation Foundation, a private
society, to examine the evidence. Based on an
analysis of photographs, celestial sightings, ocean
depth readings and other records, the Foundation, in a
230-page report, concluded that Peary’s final camp had
been within five miles of the pole.
Wally Herbert was born in York, England, on Oct.
24, 1934, into a family with a long tradition of military
service. In addition to his daughter, he is survived
by his wife, Marie.
Sir Wally did not attend college but acquired surveyor
skills while a member of the Royal Engineers
in the Middle East from 1951 to 1954. He later joined
the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey, the forerunner
of the British Antarctic Survey. In the late 1950s
and early ’60s, while traveling on foot and dog sled,
he mapped 45,000 square miles of the Antarctic. With
Inuit people, he later roamed thousands of miles in
the Arctic. An Antarctic mountain range and an Arctic
mountain are named for Sir Wally, according to the
Royal Geographical Society.
“As well as his superhuman physical achievements,
his expeditions laid the foundations for modern
polar science and our understanding of the thinning
Arctic ice from climate change,” said the director
of the Royal Geographical Society, Rita Gardner.
For the Arctic crossing, Sir Wally was joined by
Maj. Kenneth Hedges of the Royal Army Medical
Corps; Allan Gill, a photographer; and Roy
Koerner, a Canadian glaciologist. They made two long stops:
two months in the summer and five months in the winter.
In winter, the four-man team lived in total darkness.
For Dr. Koerner, the most harrowing moments
came in the first week, in February 1968.
Dr. Koerner said the problem was caused by shorefast— sea ice close to the coast. “Once you step off
it, you’re on ice crunching against the shore-fast,” he
said. “For something like 40 miles the ice can break
up around you. Literally in the dark, we had to take
our tents down and move.”
Sir Wally’s preparations led to success. “He was
not surprised by these kinds of events,” Dr. Koerner
said. “The sleds could carry the loads, and the tents
were not too heavy and able to withstand any of the
storms and the temperatures.”
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Wally and his Trans-Arctic expedition at the North Pole on
April 4, 1969 in the “last great journey on earth.” |
When the team arrived at the pole, the temperature
was 50 degrees below zero.
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